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What fast fashion costs the world

The bales arrive by the truckload at the market in Johannesburg at dawn, squat white bricks weighing upwards of 600 pounds, each one as big and unwieldy as a dishwasher. Inside are thousands of pieces of secondhand clothing that have been pressed and shrink-wrapped into cubes by textile recyclers in the U.S., Europe, and Asia.

Every morning, the dozens of traders who work a stretch of three downtown blocks known as KwaDunusa — a Zulu word that translates more or less to “the place of bending over and sticking your backside out” — slice the thick plastic coverings from these bales and spread their wrinkled contents into double-bed-sized bins. Depending on the item and its quality, they pick a price from 3 rand (about 20 cents) to 60 rand ($4). And then, as morning light slants through the surrounding art deco high-rises, they begin shouting.

“Cheapcheapcheapcheap!” they call to passing commuters, plunging their hands into piles of polyester and Lycra and flipping the contents of their bins again and again to catch

— source expmag.com | Ryan Lenora Brown | Jan 14, 2022

Nullius in verba